Typically, Third Party Only (TPO) is the cheapest level of cover because it provides the bare legal minimum – covering damage to other people, vehicles or property, but not your own van.

However, don’t assume it’s always the best value.

In some cases, comprehensive insurance can be cheaper depending on your risk profile, van type, and location – so it pays to compare.

There are several smart ways to cut costs:

• • Increase your voluntary excess (but only what you can afford to pay in a claim).

  • Install a tracker or dashcam to reduce theft and fraud risks.

  • Pay annually instead of monthly to avoid interest charges.

  • Park your van off-road or in a garage overnight.

  • Compare quotes regularly – never just auto-renew.

You can also shop around for specialist brokers who understand the van insurance market and can help you find a better deal.

It’s all about what – and who – you’re transporting.

Carriage of own goods is for trades like builders or florists carrying their own tools or products to a job.

Haulage, on the other hand, is for delivering items for customers, like a courier or delivery driver.

Get this wrong and you risk having claims rejected – always match the cover to how you use your van.

Yes – as long as it’s used or parked on public roads, your van needs to be insured by law.

Even if you just drive it for leisure – like fishing trips, camping, or moving personal items – a van still requires the same minimum insurance as a car.

If your van’s off the road entirely, you’ll need to officially declare it SORN (Statutory Off Road Notification) to avoid paying for insurance.

Generally, yes.

Vans are usually larger, more powerful, and carry higher-value goods, making them more of a risk to insurers — especially if used for work.

That said, there are ways to keep costs down.

Keep your mileage low, park securely overnight, avoid high-risk postcodes, and compare quotes each year to avoid the loyalty penalty.

Probably not.

Unlike many car insurance policies, van insurance rarely includes a ‘Driving Other Vehicles’ clause — and if it does, it’s often restricted to emergencies or only applies to certain vehicle classes.

If you regularly drive more than one van, consider adding multiple vans to your policy or looking into fleet or any-driver cover.

Never assume you’re covered without checking your certificate of insurance.

In most cases, no.

Car and van insurance are usually treated separately, and your car’s no-claims bonus (NCB) can’t be transferred to a van policy.

However, some insurers offer a mirrored bonus, allowing you to match your existing NCB for your van — often at a slightly higher premium.

Always ask — especially if you’ve built up a strong record with your car insurer.

A modification is any change made to your van after it leaves the factory — whether it’s cosmetic, performance-based, or functional.

That includes things like alloy wheels, spoilers, signage, racking, engine tuning, or even adding a tow bar.

Insurers care because modifications can affect your risk level, value, or likelihood of theft.

Failing to declare them could invalidate your cover — even for unrelated claims.

Not automatically.

Standard van insurance covers the van itself — not what’s inside it. So if your tools or stock are stolen or damaged, you could be left out of pocket.

To protect your gear, you’ll need to add tools-in-transit cover, or buy a separate policy designed for tradespeople or couriers.

Always check policy wording — and consider extra security like deadlocks or tool safes to lower your premium.

Yes, but only if your policy specifically includes both uses.

If you only select ‘social use’, you won’t be covered for work-related driving, including trips to the builder’s merchant or carrying tools.

To stay legal and protected, choose a “social, domestic, pleasure and business use” policy if you use the van for both work and leisure.